DIY: Installing a Short Shifter and Upgrading Shift Linkage Bushings on an EM1
There’s a specific kind of magic that happens when you slide behind the wheel of a 1999-2000 Honda Civic Si, the legendary EM1. It’s not just about the high-revving B16A2 engine or the sleek lines; it’s about the connection between you and the machine. And nothing ruins that connection faster than a sloppy, vague shifter that feels like stirring a bowl of oatmeal.
If you’re reading this, you’re likely part of the crew that believes a Honda should feel precise. The good news is that one of the most satisfying weekend projects you can tackle is rebuilding the heart of that connection: the shifter assembly. By installing a short throw shifter and upgrading the worn-out shift linkage bushings, you can transform your EM1’s driving experience. It’s a job you can do in your driveway with basic tools, and the payoff is a crisp, mechanical feel that makes every gear change a joy.
TL;DR
Revitalize your EM1’s shifting feel by installing a short throw shifter and replacing the factory shift linkage bushings. This DIY guide covers the entire process from removing the center console to installing a new short shifter and upgraded bushings. You’ll need to work both inside the car and underneath it, using jack stands for safety. Upgraded bushings eliminate the rubbery, vague feel and, combined with a short shifter, can reduce throw by up to 40% for faster, more precise shifts. Expect the job to take about 1-3 hours depending on your experience and the condition of your bolts.
Key Takeaways
- Cost-Effective Upgrade: A new short shifter and bushing kit can be had for under $100, making it one of the best bang-for-your-buck mods for the EM1.
- Dramatic Feel Improvement: You’ll feel the difference immediately. Shifts become shorter, more direct, and far more engaging.
- Address the Weak Points: The factory bushings are often the first to wear out, leading to that “sloppy” feeling many 90s Hondas develop.
- DIY-Friendly: While it’s a two-front job (inside the car and under it), it doesn’t require specialized tools, just patience and a safe way to lift the car.
Understanding the EM1 Shifter Assembly: The Root of the Problem
The 1996-2000 Civic platform, which includes the EM1 Si, uses a cable-operated shifter. This means the gear lever connects to the transmission via two metal cables. Over time, the rubber bushings at the ends of these cables and at the shifter base wear down, harden, or simply disintegrate.
Here’s the thing about the EM1’s shifter — you either have a tight, direct connection to the transmission, or you’re digging through the center console wondering why your gear changes feel so vague. The factory setup was good, but age and miles have taken their toll. The rubber bushings, which were designed to isolate vibration, now just introduce play. You shift, and the slop is absorbed by the old bushings before the transmission even knows what you’re doing.
The Bushing Solution
Upgraded bushings are the single most effective way to eliminate this play. Aftermarket kits from companies like Hardrace replace those soft rubber mounts with a much firmer material like TPV (Thermoplastic Vulcanizate) or even metal. These materials resist deformation, ensuring that 100% of your input goes directly to the shift cables and, ultimately, the transmission. The result? A crisper, more precise shift every time.
The Short Shifter Advantage
While new bushings fix the vagueness, a short throw shifter fixes the distance. Brands like Fidanza and Ralco offer direct replacement units for the EM1 that can reduce the shift throw by up to 40%. This doesn’t change how the transmission works; it changes the leverage ratio. By moving the pivot point higher, the distance your hand has to travel between gears is drastically reduced. It makes the car feel more aggressive and sporty.
The DIY Install: Short Shifter and Bushing Replacement
Ready to get your hands dirty? Here’s a step-by-step guide to tackling both projects at once. Since you have to remove the shifter assembly to do the bushings, it’s the perfect time to drop in a new short shifter.
Safety First! You must jack up the car and support it securely on jack stands to work underneath. Never rely on a jack alone.
Part 1: Interior Work
- Remove the Center Console: This is the easy part. Pop off the shift knob and the trim around the shifter. Unscrew the bolts holding the center console in place and carefully lift it out of the way. This will expose the top of the shifter assembly and the 4 mounting bolts that hold it to the floor pan.
- Access the Shifter Base: With the console removed, you’ll see the top of the shifter assembly held in by four bolts. These bolts are often rusty, so hit them with some penetrating oil now to make your life easier later.
Part 2: Under the Car
- Safely Lift the Car: With the parking brake engaged and the rear wheels chocked, jack up the front of the car. Place your jack stands securely under the frame rails. Crawl under and locate the shift linkage connecting the bottom of the shifter to the transmission.
- Unbolt the Linkage: At the base of the shifter, you’ll find a bolt or two connecting the shift rod to the shifter assembly. You’ll need to remove these to drop the entire shifter unit out from the bottom of the car. You might also need to disconnect the shift cables from the transmission end to get enough slack.
- Remove the Shifter Assembly: Go back inside the car. Remove the four bolts holding the shifter base to the floor. The entire assembly should now be free and can be pulled out from under the car.
An owner tip: The Ralco RZ and Fidanza short shifters are designed for “direct bolt-on installation,” which makes this part a breeze.
Part 3: The Rebuild
- Bench Work: Bring the shifter assembly to your workbench. Using a vise can make the next step significantly easier. Remove the old shifter from the base by driving out the roll pin or removing the pivot bolt.
- Replace the Bushings: Now, look at the base of the shifter. You’ll see rubber bushings where it mounts to the floor. These are often the worst culprits. Remove them. If they’re old and brittle, you might need to cut or pry them out.
- Install New Bushings: This is where a technique from the Acura RSX forum comes in handy. Instead of fully removing the assembly from the car, you can rotate it 90 degrees to work on it. For the floor bushings, you’ll often have a bushing set that goes both above and below the mounting hole in the floor pan. The trick is to place one set of bushings on the floor pan below, drop the shifter assembly on top, and place the other set on top before reinstalling the bolts. This sandwiches the floor pan between the new, firm bushings. For the cable ends, the process is similar. You’ll need to remove the old, degraded rubber bushings and press the new ones into the cable ends. Some kits require you to “grind off the top center of the old bushing, and then knocking the bushing out of the cable end”. Once the new bushing is installed, be sure to apply a small amount of the included grease to the ball that the cable end connects to on the transmission.
Part 4: Reassembly
- Install the New Short Shifter: Place your new short shifter into the base. Be careful; the pivot mechanism is often under spring pressure. Reinstall the roll pin or pivot bolt.
- Reinstall Under the Car: Take your newly built shifter assembly back under the car. Feed it up from the bottom and into the cabin. Reinstall the four base bolts, ensuring they go through the new bushings and are snug.
- Reconnect the Linkage: Bolt the shift linkage back to the bottom of the new shifter. Reconnect the cables to the transmission.
- Test Before Final Assembly: Before putting everything back together, get in the driver’s seat and run the shifter through all the gears. It should feel vastly different—tight and direct. This is the “aha” moment. Make sure it shifts into every gear smoothly and the shift lever returns to center correctly.
- Reassemble the Interior: Once you’re sure everything works, reinstall the center console, shift boot, and your shift knob. Take it for a test drive and feel the difference.
Timeline of Shifter Evolution in the Golden Era
The EM1’s shifter is a product of its time, a cable-operated system that was a step up from the more direct, but often notchy, rod-linkage found in earlier models.
- 1988-1991 (EF Generation): Many models used a rod-linkage shifter, which was mounted directly on top of the transmission.
- 1992-1995 (EG Generation): The design started to shift (pun intended) towards cable operation, allowing for more design flexibility in the cabin.
- 1996-2000 (EK/EM1 Generation): The cable-shifter setup reached its modern form. The EM1 Si, however, had a slightly different cable bracket on the transmission than its non-VTEC counterparts.
- Modern Era: By the time the 8th-generation Civic rolled out, the shifter design evolved again, but the fundamental principle of a short throw and solid bushings transforming the feel has never changed.
Short Shifter vs. Bushing Upgrade: Which is Better?
They address different problems. One isn’t better than the other; they work best as a team.
| Feature | Short Throw Shifter | Upgraded Shift Linkage Bushings |
|---|---|---|
| Primary Goal | Reduces the physical distance of the shift throw for quicker shifts | Eliminates “slop” and play for a more precise, direct feel |
| Best Used For | Improving the sporty feel and reducing shift time | Restoring and improving shift precision, especially on high-mileage cars |
| Installation | Moderate, requires work inside and under the car | Easy to Moderate, can often be done as part of the short shifter install |
| The “Feel” | Shorter, more mechanical feeling | Tighter, more connected, no more vagueness |
| Key Brands | Fidanza, Ralco, B&M | Hardrace, Energy Suspension |
Upgrading the bushings is often the first step many EM1 owners should take. It restores the factory precision that has likely been lost. Adding a short shifter takes that restored precision and amplifies it, making the car feel truly sporty.
“A Honda interior isn’t just a place to sit; it’s a practical workspace, a family hub, and a command center. The same goes for the connection between the driver and the car. A precise shifter assembly isn’t just about comfort; it’s about making every drive—from a spirited backroad run to a daily commute—feel more engaging and connected.”
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How long does it take to install a short shifter in an EM1?
A: Expect the job to take about 1 to 3 hours, depending on your mechanical experience and the condition of the bolts under the car. Rusty hardware can add significant time.
Q: Do I need a special tool to install the shifter bushings?
A: Not necessarily. You can often remove old bushings with a flathead screwdriver and pliers. For installation, channel locks or adjustable pliers are often recommended to press the new bushings into place.
Q: Will a short shifter damage my transmission?
A: No, a properly installed short shifter will not damage your transmission. It only changes the leverage ratio inside the cabin, not the internal mechanisms of the transmission.
Q: Can I install a short shifter without going under the car?
A: No, you must go under the car. The shift linkage needs to be unbolted from the bottom of the shifter assembly to remove it from the vehicle.
Q: What are the signs that my shift linkage bushings need replacing?
A: The most common sign is excessive “slop” or play in the shifter. The gear lever will feel vague and you won’t be able to find a gear confidently. You might also hear a rattling noise from the shifter area.
What’s your favorite shift feel mod for your Honda? Drop your thoughts in the comments below.
For further reading on Honda performance and maintenance:
