Solving Wheel Hop on FWD Hondas: Upgrading Rear Motor Mounts and Traction Bars for Good
You’ve just dropped the clutch on your tuned Civic Si, the tires hook up for a split second, and then—bam, bam, bam—your entire front end shudders like it’s having a seizure.
That violent shaking is wheel hop, and it’s one of the most annoying and potentially damaging issues for any front-wheel-drive Honda owner. It robs you of traction, ruins your launch times, and puts massive stress on your drivetrain components.
The good news? You don’t have to live with it. There are two proven upgrades that serious Honda enthusiasts swear by: upgrading the Rear Motor Mount (RMM) and installing a traction bar system. Let’s break down what each does, how they work, and which one makes sense for your FWD Honda.
TL;DR
Wheel hop in FWD Hondas happens because the engine rocks back and forth under hard acceleration, causing the front wheels to bounce. Upgrading your rear motor mount stiffens the connection between the engine and chassis, reducing this movement and eliminating wheel hop at the source. Traction bars tie the lower control arms to the frame, stiffening the front suspension geometry and preventing the suspension from binding during hard launches. The RMM is typically an easier, more affordable first step, while traction bars deliver the ultimate solution for serious track and drag racing applications.
Key Takeaways
- A stiffer rear motor mount drastically reduces engine movement, eliminating wheel hop and improving throttle response.
- Most aftermarket mounts add some vibration (NVH) to the cabin, but modern designs with 60A EPDM bushings keep it manageable for daily drivers.
- Traction bars tie the front lower control arms to the chassis, stiffening the suspension and preventing geometry changes that cause wheel hop.
- For ultimate traction, many serious Honda owners combine both upgrades—a stiff RMM and a quality traction bar set.
- Install difficulty varies—RMMs are bolt-on jobs (4-5 bolts), while traction bars require more work and sometimes fabrication.
What’s Causing the Hop?
Here’s the thing about front-wheel-drive cars—the same wheels that handle steering and braking are also responsible for putting all that power to the ground. When you launch hard, the engine torques over on its mounts, causing the drivetrain to shift. This movement changes the suspension geometry momentarily, and the front wheels lose traction. Then they grab again, the engine rocks back, and the cycle repeats, creating that awful bouncing effect.
The factory motor mounts are designed for comfort above all else. They’re soft rubber-filled units that do a great job isolating engine vibrations from the cabin but a terrible job of keeping the powertrain stable during aggressive driving. Upgrade that floppy rear mount, and the difference is immediate.
The Rear Motor Mount Solution: Stop the Hop at Its Source
Upgrading the rear motor mount is often the first and most effective step for eliminating wheel hop. This mount is typically the one that handles the forward/backward rocking motion of the engine when you’re getting on and off the throttle.
What to Expect from a Stiffer RMM
The benefits are pretty dramatic. Owners consistently report that after installing an upgraded RMM, wheel hop basically disappears, launches feel more direct, and shifting response improves because the drivetrain isn’t flopping around. The car simply feels more planted and responsive.
You’ll also notice some downsides. A stiffer mount transmits more vibration into the cabin—aftermarket mounts are notorious for this. However, modern designs have come a long way in balancing performance and comfort.
Material Matters: EPDM vs. Urethane
Here’s where the engineering gets interesting. Many budget aftermarket mounts use urethane bushings. They’re stiff, sure, but they tend to rattle your teeth out and can wear out or deform over time.
Premium mounts, like those from PRL Motorsports, use EPDM rubber bushings with a 60A durometer rating. EPDM is what the OEMs use because it resists heat, oil, and chemicals way better than urethane. PRL’s mount uses an I-beam design in the billet aluminum body, which resists bending and stress without adding a ton of weight.
The result? You get the performance benefits—no wheel hop, better traction, improved throttle response—without the constant rattling that makes you hate driving the car.
RMM Options by Platform
The 10th and 11th-gen Civic platforms (2016+), including the Si and Type R, have a ton of RMM options available. Companies like PRL Motorsports, Precision Works, and COBB Tuning all offer well-engineered mounts for these cars.
For the 11th-gen Civic and new Integra, the Precision Works and COBB mounts are popular choices. COBB’s design uses an 85A front bushing and a 68A rear bushing to balance stiffness and vibration absorption.
Is the Vibration Worth It?
This is the million-dollar question. Most people who install an upgraded RMM say the extra vibration is totally worth it. The car feels more connected, more responsive, and launches without that awful wheel hop.
The vibration is usually most noticeable at idle with the air conditioning on. But even then, it’s not typically unbearable for a daily driver. And many owners note that the mount settles in after a few hundred miles, with the vibration mellowing out as the bushings break in.
Traction Bars: The Ultimate Chassis Stiffening
If the rear motor mount stops engine movement, traction bars take care of the other half of the wheel hop equation: suspension flex.
How They Work
Traction bars tie the front lower control arms directly to the chassis frame, replacing the floppy factory front crossmember. This creates a much more rigid connection that prevents the lower control arms from moving around during hard launches or cornering.
The result is better traction because the suspension geometry stays consistent under load. You’re not fighting the car’s own chassis flex when you’re trying to put power down. And for drag racers, that translates directly to better 60-foot times and more consistent launches.
Who Makes Them and What They Fit
Megan Racing makes a popular traction bar kit for the EG/EK Civic and DC Integra (1992-2000 Civics, 1994-2001 Integras). Innovative Mounts also offers a competition-grade traction bar for these chassis that’s designed for serious racing applications.
For the older 88-91 Prelude, there are traction bar kits available with detailed install instructions. The installation involves mounting the bars to the lower control arms and the front chassis, which typically requires getting the car up high enough to work underneath.
Installation: Not a Beginner Job
Unlike a rear motor mount that you can swap in your driveway in an hour, traction bars are more involved. You’ll need to support the car, remove the factory crossmember, and sometimes deal with fitment quirks, depending on your setup.
The Innovative Mounts kit, for instance, requires you to have the correct lower control arms and forks for the install to work properly on an EM1 Civic. You also need to consider clearances with your radiator and exhaust headers.
Some dedicated Honda owners have even built their own traction bars for about $85 in materials from Home Depot and a local race shop. It’s not for everyone, but it shows how crucial this upgrade is for the hardcore crowd.
Which Upgrade Is Right for You?
So, RMM or traction bars? Or both?
The RMM is the Better First Step
If you’re just looking to eliminate wheel hop on a street-driven car, the rear motor mount is the logical first step. It’s relatively inexpensive, straightforward to install, and makes a noticeable difference in how the car feels.
The RMM is also a good mod for daily drivers because the vibration is manageable, especially with modern EPDM bushing designs.
Traction Bars Are for the Dedicated
If you’re building a track car, a drag racer, or just want the absolute best traction possible, traction bars are the next level. They address chassis flex and suspension geometry in a way that a motor mount can’t.
But they’re also more expensive, harder to install, and can make the ride more harsh. And they may require other modifications to fit properly.
The Ultimate Setup
For the ultimate anti-wheel-hop setup, many serious enthusiasts combine both upgrades—a stiff rear motor mount paired with a quality traction bar. The mount stops the engine from rocking, and the bars keep the suspension geometry solid. It’s a one-two punch that delivers the best possible traction.
Common Questions About Upgrading RMMs and Traction Bars
Will an upgraded rear motor mount make my daily driver unbearable?
Most modern mounts with 60A EPDM bushings add only a mild increase in cabin vibration that most owners find acceptable. You’ll feel it most at idle with the A/C on, but it settles down after a few hundred miles of break-in.
Is installing a rear motor mount something I can do myself?
Yes, it’s typically a bolt-on affair that requires basic hand tools and jack stands. You’ll need to support the engine while swapping the mount, but it’s generally a 1-2 hour job.
Do traction bars fit all Honda models?
No, traction bars are chassis-specific. Common applications include 92-00 Civics (EG/EK/EM) and 94-01 Integras (DC). Always check fitment for your specific model and year.
Will traction bars affect my daily driving comfort?
They can make the front end feel harsher and transmit more road noise, as they replace soft bushings with solid spherical joints or heim joints. They’re best suited for enthusiasts who prioritize performance over comfort.
Can I run a traction bar with a factory radiator and exhaust?
It depends on the kit. The Innovative Mounts traction bar is designed to clear factory headers, but you should always verify clearance for your specific setup, especially with aftermarket exhaust components or oversized radiators.
Do I need to upgrade all three motor mounts or just the rear?
The rear motor mount is the most effective for reducing wheel hop, as it handles the forward/backward engine movement under acceleration. Upgrading the front and side mounts can further tighten things up, but the rear mount provides the biggest improvement.
What’s the difference between a traction bar and a strut tower bar?
They serve different purposes. A traction bar ties the lower control arms to the chassis to improve suspension geometry and traction. A strut tower bar connects the top of the strut towers to increase chassis rigidity and reduce body flex during cornering.
Wrapping It Up: The Bottom Line
Wheel hop is one of those issues that can really take the fun out of driving a performance Honda. But the good news is that the solution is both affordable and well-proven.
A rear motor mount upgrade will dramatically reduce wheel hop, improve your launches, and make your car feel more responsive—all for under $250 and in an afternoon of driveway wrenching. For a daily driver that sees the occasional spirited backroad session, this is all you need.
If you’re building a more serious track car or drag racer, adding traction bars is the ultimate solution. They stiffen the entire front suspension, eliminate the last bit of wheel hop, and give you the consistent traction you need for fast times.
The key is knowing your goals. A well-chosen RMM is a fantastic “one and done” upgrade for most drivers. But for the truly hardcore, pairing that RMM with a quality traction bar kit turns a good FWD platform into a great one.
What’s your experience with wheel hop on your Honda? Have you tried either of these upgrades? Drop your thoughts in the comments below.
For further reading on Honda performance upgrades and suspension tuning:
