Honda Rear Trailing Arm Bushings: Pressing Out the Old and Aligning the New
There’s a specific kind of dread that comes from staring at a rusted Honda rear trailing arm bushing, knowing that getting it out is going to test every bit of your patience, vocabulary, and probably your tools.
If your Honda feels like it’s wandering on the highway or you’ve noticed cupping wear on your rear tires, there’s a good chance your rear trailing arm bushings are shot. These bushings are the movable metal suspension pieces at the rear of your car that connect the wheel, brake, and hub . When they fail, handling gets sloppy and tires wear unevenly. Here’s how to tackle the job without losing your mind.
TL;DR
Replacing rear trailing arm bushings on 1988-2000 Honda Civics and similar models is a tough but doable DIY. You can either remove the entire trailing arm and use a press, or use a specialty tool (around $100) to replace them on the car—which saves huge labor. The critical step is “clocking” the new bushing: you must install it at the exact same angle it sits when the car is on the ground, or it will bind and fail prematurely. Budget 3+ hours per side and definitely get an alignment afterward.
Key Takeaways
- A failing rear trailing arm bushing causes cupping tire wear and vague handling .
- Removing the trailing arm is the most time-consuming part—the e-brake cable and seized bolts are the main obstacles .
- A specialty bushing tool is worth the investment—it lets you do the job on the car in about 10-15 minutes per side .
- Energy Suspension urethane bushings can cause suspension bind—many experienced owners recommend sticking with OEM rubber bushings .
- “Clocking” the bushing is critical: mark its orientation with the car sitting on its wheels to avoid pre-loading the bushing .
The Tool Decision: Specialty Tool vs. Press
The first big choice is how you’re going to remove and install the bushings. Here are your options:
| Method | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Specialty Tool (NYXOVA, ABN, etc.) | Work on the car, 10-15 min per side, no press needed | Costs ~$100, only works for Honda/Acura trailing arms |
| Remove Trailing Arm + Press | Get bushings out cleanly | Requires removing e-brake cable, huge PITA |
| Hammer + Improvised Tools | Cheap | Slow, frustrating, can damage the arm |
The specialty tool is designed specifically for Honda/Acura vehicles with trailing arm bushings. It uses a hook design that mounts securely on the trailing arm without damaging the ABS sensor cable or requiring you to disconnect brake parts like calipers, rotors, brake shoes, or brake fluid lines . One forum member reported that with the tool, it took them just 15 minutes per side .
If you’re on a budget, some owners have successfully used a hammer and improvised tools—one member used a 2-inch water pipe fitting to hammer the bushing out from the inside out . But the consensus is clear: the specialty tool makes the job much easier.
Removing the Old Bushing
Whether you’re using the specialty tool or a press, here’s the general approach:
- Remove the wheels and body lateral link bolts (watch for any camber shims between the body and the link) .
- Loosen the toe link bolts. Do not remove the compensator bolts (bolt #11) if you can avoid it, as this requires a full alignment .
- Remove the trailing arm bushing bolts and pull the trailing arm down enough to fit the tool .
- Apply lubrication to the trailing arm bushing .
- Use the tool to push out the old bushing .
If you’re removing the entire trailing arm (not recommended unless you have to), be prepared for a fight. The e-brake cable is the biggest headache—you’ll need to disconnect it from the brake shoe area, which can be a struggle . One owner described it as a “Bitch-Ass experience” and said they’d rather do a timing belt job .
The Critical Step: Clocking the Bushing
This is where many DIYers get into trouble. The trailing arm bushing needs to be installed at the exact angle it sits when the car is on the ground . If you install it with the arm hanging unsupported, the bushing will be pre-loaded, which causes premature failure and may affect your alignment.
Here’s how to do it right:
- With the car sitting on its wheels (on ramps or a lift), mark the current orientation of the bushing .
- Use a ruler to line up the bushing with the under-floor pan, and make a mark—that’s your “clock line” .
- When installing the new bushing, make sure the mounting pin lines up with that mark .
If your car is lowered (even just 0.75-1.00″), you need to clock the bushing at the new ride height, not the factory position .
Aftermarket vs. OEM Bushings
There’s a strong consensus in the Honda community about this: stick with OEM bushings. Energy Suspension urethane bushings, while popular, can cause suspension bind because they don’t allow the trailing arm to deform under normal movement. One forum member reported: “imo, don’t install the ES trailing arm bushing. it is not designed to sway correctly, and will definitely ruin your handling” .
Another member confirmed: “The trailing arm bushing needs to deform under normal movement. Urethane won’t allow that, thus you get binding” .
MOOG offers aftermarket rubber bushings that are a solid alternative to OEM. They’re designed to resist wear, road grime, salt, and oils better than typical bushings, and they’re less prone to splitting . If you’re replacing bushings, consider MOOG or genuine Honda parts.
Post-Installation: Alignment is Mandatory
Once the bushings are installed, you need a rear wheel alignment. Removing suspension parts changes the geometry . One member put it perfectly: “You’re removing and replacing suspension parts. Get the car aligned when you’re done. Alignments are cheaper than tires” .
Also, mark the toe adjusting bolt before removal with a paint marker so you have a baseline .
FAQ Section
What are the symptoms of bad rear trailing arm bushings?
Uneven or cupping tire wear, sloppy rear-end handling, and clunking noises from the rear suspension are common signs .
Do I need to remove the trailing arm to replace the bushings?
No. A specialty tool allows you to replace them on the car in about 10-15 minutes per side . Removing the arm is a much bigger job.
What does “clocking” a bushing mean?
Clocking means installing the bushing at the same angle it sits when the car is on the ground. This prevents pre-loading the bushing, which would cause premature wear .
Can I use Energy Suspension urethane bushings?
You can, but many experienced owners recommend against them. The urethane can cause suspension bind because it doesn’t allow the bushing to deform under normal movement .
How long does this job take?
With the specialty tool, expect 15-30 minutes per side. Without the tool, expect 3+ hours of frustration .
Why do I need an alignment after replacing trailing arm bushings?
Because you’re removing and replacing suspension parts, which changes the geometry. A proper alignment ensures even tire wear and correct handling .
Replacing rear trailing arm bushings is one of those jobs that separates casual DIYers from the truly dedicated. The right tool makes all the difference, and understanding the clocking procedure is non-negotiable for a lasting repair. Take your time, mark everything, and don’t skip the alignment. Your tires (and your handling) will thank you.
Have you tackled this job on your Honda? What tool did you use, and how did it go? Drop your experience in the comments below.
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